Kota Doria Saris – A Geographical Indication of Rajasthan :

Kota doriya or Kota doria is one of many types of sari garmentsm made at Kota, Rajasthan and Muhammadabad Gohna, Mau in Uttar Pradesh and its nearby area. Sarees are made of pure cotton and silk and have square like patterns known as khats on them. The chequered weave of a Kota sari is very popular. They are very fine weaves and weigh very less.

History :

Originally, such sarees were called Masuria because they were woven in Mysore. The weavers were subsequently brought to Shada, a small town in Kota by Rao Kishore Singh, a general in the Mughal army. The weavers were brought to Kota in the late 17th and early 18th century and the sarees came to be known as 'Kota-Masuria'. Its name as Kota Masuria in itself is quite enigmatic. Folklore suggests that the craft originated in Mysore and then moved to Kota where it is now based, hence the word ‘Masuria’ in the name. The weavers are believed to have moved to Kota because of the patronage they received from the royal families of Rajasthan.

Kota saris were primarily patronised by Maharao Bhim Singh, who summoned the weavers from the Deccan region to Kota, between 1707 and 1720. The art of using open khat patterns on fabric was so intriguing that it was highly appreciated by the elite. Even today, the traditional ways of setting patterns, making graphs, dyeing and yarn setting are little changed due to the high efficiency of the methods.

Kota Doria, when it originated, was made in white and had to be dyed according to personal preferences. Eventually, solid dyed or printed Kota Doria with a silk embroidered border became popular. The demand for a variety of Doria fabrics made it a favourite of various different classes. While the middle class locals preferred simple cotton fabric that would be suitable for the prevailing hot climate, the noble gentry demanded opulent embellished Doria attire with brocade work and fine silk strands.

Weave :

Kota Doria is woven on a traditional pit loom in such a fashion that it produces square checks pattern on the fabric. The delicately wrought checks are locally known as khats. They smear onion juice and rice paste with a lot of care into the yarn making the yarn so strong that no additional finishing is needed.

The most common traditional Kota Doria sarees have a cream, unbleached base colour. These are sometimes coloured later, usually with tie-dye, batik, solid dyeing or printing processes. Bright colours like red, purple, turquoise, yellow and saffron are also used. The use of golden zari, especially for the borders, is also prevalent. Vibrant hues with ornate borders are used for festive wear sarees, as is customary for cultural traditions. These colours are preferred owing to the hot climate for which these sarees are prepared.

Industry :

Kota sarees are popularly known as 'Masuria' in Kota and Kotadoria outside the state. 'Doria' means thread. Rajasthan Handloom Development Corporation (RHDC) is taking the lead in producing items other than sarees from the Kota Doria. They have helped produce lamp shades, curtains, skirts and salwar-kamiz. They have even helped make an all silk saree on Masuria handlooms. Kota saris display individuality with a bit of embroidery and border patches, making them totally exclusive.

Production technique :

The raw materials required for making Kota Doria sarees include warping paste, silk yarn and cotton yarn. Onion and water are the constituents of the warping paste, which is unique to the Kota region. Silk yarn and fine count cotton yarn are used for weaving the fabric. These are obtained from Surat, Gujarat, in the form of hanks. The yarn needs to be prepared before the weaving process begins. The most important tools that are put to use are the reeds that are specially made in Varanasi, for weaving the threads.

The initial step in the creation of this fabric is pirn winding. Here, the yarn from hanks is converted into spools for weft insertion. This process is also carried out for zari or silk thread. The next stage involves the peg warping of the yarns on the wooden pegs, also referred to as pinjras. Dyeing is the next phase. Direct dyes are primarily used, owing to the comfort of use and high retention capabilities.

The preparation of loom comprises both drafting and denting. Drafting is the process of passing the warp yarn through the heddle to make the required design. Denting involves the manual filling of the reed, a technique that the artisans learn with patience. Attachments of dobby and jacquard are also made on the looms in order to create borders of varying intricacies.

The final weaving of the Kota Doria fabric is done on simple pit looms that can be easily procured by the villagers. The throw shuttle method is still used, putting a high degree control in the hands of the artisans to achieve the required khat pattern.