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The colourful textiles of Rajasthan :
The most significant variety of traditional textiles, both in technique and style, has carry on even to the present day. It forms the basis for further progress in pattern and design, thus defining the principles of arts of the region and representing the rising social and cultural values of its people. Just like any other region of the world, Rajasthani textiles also specializes in emerging some brilliant fabric and the most valuable one of the region is the tie and dye work which is also called `bandhni` in local language. Tie and dye work, known as Bandhej or bandhni is well-known all over Rajasthan in the form of colourful odhnis and saffas.
Bandhini : Tiny, incredibly precise designs are achieved in cloth by plucking and tying a thread to reveal artwork in bright shades of like vermillion, saffron, emerald, sapphire, and yellow yields. Along with style, there is also symbolism here – red can represent a Hindu bride, and yellow signifies maternity. Bandhini use is common on turbans, dupattas, and sarees, in accompaniment with embroidery, mirror-work, and appliqué.
Leheriya : Named after flowing waves of water, Leheriya work focuses on clear patterns, created on thin cotton or silk cloth, for turbans or saris. Authentic Leheriya fabric is sold with the knots (used for dyeing) still in place.
Bagru : Very much similar to Sanganeri block printing, Bagru’s textile printers chose to focus on floral designs, and exclusively print using vegetable colour. Bagru work is also famed for its zigzag motifs.
Sanganeri : Rajasthan’s most popular hub of block and screen printing is Sanganer, famed for its sheer variety of folk patterns on white cotton. It is great for home linens and furnishing, including bed covers, table cloths etc. These motifs are made with thin black outlines and the use of red dye to colour figures and flowers.
Sanganer is a village of Jaipur. The printing style is called as Sanganeri Print. Cotton fabrics using vegetable colors are printed. Red and Orange with floral prints in yellow and blue is the technique of this print. This fabric is in enormous demand from the chief fashion centers throughout the world.
Barmeri Prints : Bold geometric prints are what set Barmer’s prints apart from the rest of Rajasthani textiles. Additionally, unlike the light floral colours, Barmer fabrics show darker shades as it takes inspiration from the Barmer’s location in the Thar Desert, where locals believe dark shades are cooler.
Jaipuri Quilts : Famed across the world for their softness, warmth and the artistic attention to detail, they are worth the high price they command. Not only do they insulate well, but they’re also lightweight. Adornments include frills and embroidery. They are fluffy, and traditionally use 100 % pure, finely combed cotton with a high thread count and double stitching.
These are light weight quilts. The weight of these quilts is as low as 250 gm. The specialty of these quilts is that these are very warm in spite of such a low weight. These quilts are soft & cozy. The outer cover is of cotton or silk with Rajasthani prints on it Quilted garments are also constructed in Jaipur. These are in high demand.
Kota Doria Cloth : Kota Doria is among the many types of sari textiles made in Rajasthan’s Kota region, where it gets its name from. These pure cotton and silk fabrics feature checkered square patterns, and are famed for their lightweight feel. Historically, Kota Doria weaving came from Mysore, after weavers were brought from Mysore to Kota by a Mughal army general. Application of a mixture of onion juice and rice paste during the process of weaving ensures the finish is incredibly durable. It is common to spot machine-made Kota Doria fabric today.
Applique work : It is an art where different pieces of cloth are fixed together. The interesting colour, shape and pattern combinations against contrasting background catch the eye.
Tie & Dye : This is a highly skilled art. The fabric is tied into small points with clothes. When the fabric as a whole is colored the knotted points remain undyed. These undyed points along with a dyed portion give a distinctive look. This art is called "Bandhej''. Block Printing : Rajasthan is the heart of block printing. Most of the work is done by hand only. The art of block printing & dyeing is connected with home furnishing and fabric for personal wear. The main centers for the block printing are Sanganer and Bagru.
Rajasthan’s textiles represent an amalgamation of generations of experimentation with fabric, handicraft skills and a sharp eye for detail. These textiles, woven with incredible precision, are the result of an oral tradition that has passed down generations, and been honed with finesse and purpose. It is always advisable to “buy local” – i.e. visit small villages instead of buying from Rajasthan’s urban shopping centers, as this is where you can get the kind of fabric, weaving and embroidery that is impossible to get anywhere else in the world.
Rajasthan had mastered fabric dyeing much before America’s fascination with hippie tie and dye patterns.
By: Pooja Sharda ProfileResourcesReport error
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