Handlooms and handicrafts are important sectors among the occupations of non-farm sector of rural areas. These activities have become an alternative livelihood for the farmers and rural people in off-seasons.

Handloom:

• Handloom emerged as a symbol of patriotism during the Indian national movement.
• Handloom provides employment to more than 43 lakh weavers and other associated people directly and indirectly (Annual Report of the Ministry of Textiles, 2017-18).
• Approximately 77 % are women.
• Handloom sector has made its presence felt in the fashion industry as well.
• It has helped in increasing their demands in domestic and overseas markets.
• Given below are some of the popular handloom varieties in India:
• Phanek of Manipur
• Kullu Shawls of Himachal Pradesh
• Naga shawls of Nagaland
• Kalamkari of Andhra Pradesh
• Mysore silk of Karnataka
• Bhagalpuri silk of Bihar
• Chanderi of Madhya Pradesh
• Eri Silk of Meghalaya
• Kasavu of Kerala

Handicrafts:

• There are 68.86 lakh artisans engaged in handicrafts sector; out of which 38.61 lakhs are female artisans (Annual Report of the Ministry of Textiles, 2017-18).
• In India, handicrafts have innumerable forms and widespread presence:
• Bamboo crafts of Assam
• Zari and Chikankari works and Gulabi Meenakari of Uttar Pradesh
• Mirror work and Puppets of Rajasthan
• Phulkari embroidery of Punjab
• Bandhej of Gujarat
• Coconut shell craft of Kerala
• Rosewood inlay of Karnataka
• Thanjavur paintings of Tamil Nadu
• Madhubani painting and Sujni art of Bihar etc.

Geographical Indication:

• Geographical Indication (GI) is a step towards increasing authenticity and credibility of the goods in the market.
• Under Government’s initiatives to strengthen the handloom and handicrafts sector, 57 handloom products and 92 handicrafts have been registered under ‘The Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act 1999’.
• Ex: Gujarat’s Kutch embroidery, Bihar’s Madhubani painting and Sikki grass products, Lucknow’s Chikankari craft, Santiniketan leather goods, Konark stone carving, Villianur Terracotta works of Puducherry, Jaipur’s blue pottery, Bastar iron croft, Tami Nadu’s Thanjavur paintings are some of the handicrafts registered under Geographical Indication Act.
• Jammu-Kashmir’s Pashmina, Madhya Pradesh’s Chanderi, Gujarat’s Patan-Patola, Bihar’s Bhagalpuri Silk, Himachal Pradesh’s Kullu Shawls, Assam’s Muga Silk, Banaras brocade and sarees, Narayanpet Handloom Sarees of Telengana, etc. are some handloom articles registered under the Act.

Significance of Handicrafts and Handlooms:

• Handicrafts and handlooms provide subsidiary employment in non-agricultural season and minimise the risk of food insecurity in rural areas.
• It prevents migration of artisans, weavers and small-marginal farmers from rural to urban areas.
• It also helps in getting social recognition to the producer communities.
• Various sub segments like production of raw materials, supply and marketing of finished goods, etc. also provide indirect income.
• It helps in bringing about women empowerment in rural areas.
• These sectors also contribute significantly in the export sector.

Challenges:

• Changing preferences of consumers.
• Challenges from the international market.
• Availability of low-cost alternatives.
• Lack of interest in the younger generation to sustain the traditional craftsmanship.

Technological Intervention:

• Handicrafts and handlooms originated as manual labor.
• But later on they adopted light technology in order to cater to the needs of the market.
• Now, these are known as an unorganised cottage industry, which includes carpet sector as well.

Government Initiatives:

• Office of the Development Commissioner-Handloom and Office of the Development Commissioner-Handicrafts, Ministry of Textile are the nodal agencies of Government of India to implement the schemes.
• National Handloom Development Programme is an umbrella scheme consisting of two major components:
• Overall development of the handloom sector.
• Welfare of the handloom weavers.
• Weavers Mudra Scheme is a concessional credit scheme for the weavers as one of the major components of this umbrella scheme.
• It provides loans at concessional rates, margin money assistance and credit guarantee.
• The block level cluster projects aim at providing financial assistance of up to Rs. 2 Cr. to a cluster in a block for common facility centre.
• A common facility centre is a package with various components for technical and professional assistance in handloom sector.
• State Handloom Corporations provide marketing assistance directly to the weavers or through agencies.
• 21 leading e-commerce companies also have been engaged for online marketing of handloom products.
• Bunkar Mitra Helpline was introduced as a solution to professional queries of weavers.
• Deendayal Upadhyaya Hastkala Sankul, Varanasi is a notable initiative in the sector.
• It is an art cum trade centre and crafts museum.
• India Handloom Brand (IHB) is an initiative to create market for premium handloom products.
• It was launched marking the first ‘Handloom Day’ on August 07, 2015.
• It includes measures like widespread awareness and brand building activities, e-marketing and partnership with well-known retail stores.
• Handloom Mark has also been launched to assure quality and genuineness of handloom products to the consumers.
• Enterprise Resource Planning (ERP) system and e-Dhaga mobile App incorporate technology in this traditional domain.
• Sant Kabir Award, National Award and National Merit Certificates are motivational efforts taken up by the Government.
• Professional courses in handloom technology have been introduced through six central ‘Indian Institutes of Handloom Technology’ (IIHTs) in Varanasi (Uttar Pradesh), Salem (Tamil Nadu), Jodhpur (Rajasthan), Guwahati (Assam), Bargarh (Odisha) and Fulia-Santipur (West Bengal), and four state sector IIHTs in Venkatagiri (Andhra Pradesh), Gadag (Karnataka), Champa (Chhattisgarh) and Kannur (Kerala).
• Mahatma Gandhi Bunkar Bima Yojana (MGBBY) and Health Insurance Scheme (HIS) are social welfare measures for the weavers.
• The Ministry of Textiles provides 75 % of the fee for the children of SC, ST, BPL and women weaver families in Indira Gandhi National Open University (IGNOU) and The National Institute of Open Schooling (NIOS).
• National Handicraft Development Programme (NHDP) strives for integrated development of handicrafts sector.
• Comprehensive Handicrafts Cluster Development Scheme (Mega Cluster scheme) has three-fold objectives; infrastructure development, technology upgradation and product diversification.
• Ambedkar Hastshilp Vikas Yojana under the NHDP has the major components including Design and Technology Upgradation, Human Resource Development, Direct Benefit, Infrastructure and Technology Support, Research and Development and Marketing Support and Services.
• Gandhi Shilp Bazaar, Crafts Bazaar, Suraj Kund, Bharat Party etc. provide for marketing and promotion of the artefacts.
• Nine mega clusters have been set-up on the basis of presence and diversity of handicrafts therein.
• These mega clusters are: Srinagar, Jammu and Kashmir, Moradabad, Mirzapur-Bhadohi, Lucknow, Bareilly, Jodhpur, Kucthch and Narsapur.
• Major activities of the cluster include setting up common facility centre, skill-based training, direct assistance to artisans, design and product development and marketing.
• Ten ‘Integrated Development and Promotion of Handicrafts Projects’ also have been sanctioned.
• Handicraft Mark is a safeguarding and quality assurance measure including a trademark certification to assure authenticity of the product and to provide collective identity to the artefacts.
• Pehchan (identity) aims at facilitating artisans with smooth access to their due benefits.
• More than eleven lakh artisans received Pehchan I-cards.
• Buyers-sellers meetings, Indian Handicrafts and Gifts Fair, Hastkala Sahyog Shivir act as measures to intensify marketing efforts.
• Aam Admi Bima Yojana (AABY), support in Interest Subvention for the artisans.
• Shilp Guru, National Award and National Merit Certificate are the motivational efforts in the handicrafts sector introduced by the government.

Conclusion:

The efforts by the government are thus diverse, need-based and driven by its vision to convert this twin sector as a sustainable venture and as a potential employer. The sectors of handloom and handicrafts are gradually heading towards becoming self-reliant enterprises.